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The menu at D.C.'s Oyamel Cocina Mexicana has several pages devoted to drinks, but not a single frozen margarita. Instead, diners can expect limited-edition mezcal, as well as fries in mole sauce and tacos with chapulines (sauteed grasshoppers).
Chef Jose Andres consistently packed restaurant is proof that our appreciation of the varied regional cuisines of Mexico has come a long way. Such Oaxaca-inspired dishes, once hard to find in the U.S., are increasingly considered mainstream. And while authenticity is prised, some of the country's most highly regarded chefs have also turned their attention and creativity to Mexican, which has become somewhat of a cuisine celebre.
Oklahoma-born chef Rick Bayless was an early champion, and his high-end Mexican restaurant Topolobampo in Chichago serves cochinita pibil, a slow-roasted dish typical of the Yucatan Peninsula. In New York, other high-profile chefs like Alex Stupak of Empellon Cocina and April Bloomfield of Salvation Taco are generating buzz for pushing the cuisine's limits (case in point: guacamole with guanciale, sea urchin, and pistachio).
Still, when it comes to quality Mexican food in the U.S., two forces dominate: California with its fish tacos, super-fresh ingredients, and Mission burritos; and Texas, which spawned Tex-Mex and a more recent crop of more traditional restaurants devoted to , say Mexico City or Veracruz. Chef Hugo Ortega of Hugo's in Houston has been nominated for a 2013 James Beard Award for creations like his lamb barbaoa braised in garlic and chiles then slow-roasted in agave.
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